Social media has a way of creating the ho-hum fresh and recent. For example: exfoliation, the strategy of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of skin. Anyone who's been scrolling through TikTok these days could be convinced that this age-old skincare regimen can replace something old—let's say our aging epidermis—with recent skin. I.
How is exfoliation done?
There are two fundamental methods of exfoliation: mechanical and chemical. Each has specific advantages.
- Mechanical (or physical) exfoliation Uses a tool equivalent to a brush or loofah sponge, or a scrub containing abrasive particles, to physically remove dead skin cells. “Mechanical exfoliation can improve skin's radiance by removing the dead skin layer that can make it look dull,” says Dr. Reynolds. “And it can help open up the pores a bit, which can reduce some types of acne.”
- Chemical exfoliation Chemicals – often alpha and beta hydroxy acids or salicylic acid – are used to liquefy dead skin cells. “Chemical exfoliants work at a more micro level to dissolve excess skin cells and reduce uneven pigmentation sitting on the skin's surface,” she explains. “They also restore skin's radiance, improve acne, and give the skin a little more glow.”
Why do skincare products often promote exfoliation?
Dr. Reynolds notes that perhaps tons of of commercially available skincare products—from body washes to cleansers to face masks—are labeled as exfoliating. But she's skeptical about why such a wide selection of things plug the feature so prominently.
“It's beneficial for a cosmetics company to sell more products in a skin care line to consumers,” she says. “But it's buyer beware, because it's a completely unregulated market, and cosmetic companies can make claims that don't need to be proven in real clinical trials.”
Do we want to exfoliate our skin?
“Nothing happens if you don't exfoliate—you just walk around with rough or slightly dry skin, which is unnecessary except for cosmetic reasons,” says Dr. Reynolds.
“No one has to exfoliate, but it can be helpful to exfoliate the arms and legs,” she adds. “As we age, these areas tend to become drier than other parts of the body, and people notice they appear with much more shiny skin and an almost fishy scale.”
This phenomenon may or will not be an indication of keratosis pilaris, a standard but harmless skin condition characterised by rough, scaly “chicken skin” on the arms and upper thighs. She says physical exfoliators are a very good first alternative because keratosis pilaris tends to cover areas with tougher skin than the face. But it's okay to make use of a cleanser or lotion that incorporates chemical exfoliants as an alternative. Either type can improve skin texture and skin appearance.
Can exfoliation harm our skin?
Yes. Depending on several aspects, each physical and chemical exfoliation techniques can do more harm than good. Sensitive skin is more more likely to be irritated or inflamed by any exfoliant. And overdoing it — whether by rubbing too hard or using a product with a high acid content — can trigger irritating contact dermatitis, which may look red, offended and cracked.
“Exfoliation that's done too hard can also aggravate inflammatory acne, making it worse,” says Dr. Reynolds. “Also, exfoliating can make you more prone to sunburn.”
What are the safest ways to exfoliate?
Dr. Reynolds recommends chemical exfoliants over physical versions. “Sometimes the abrasives in those apricot scrubs, for example, can go too far, irritating the skin and causing inflammation,” she says.
She offers these additional suggestions for secure evacuation:
- If you haven't exfoliated before, start with a straightforward washcloth to see how well your skin responds to mild physical exfoliation efforts.
- Then try a light chemical exfoliant, equivalent to a low concentration of hydroxy acid or salicylic acid. Work as much as stronger concentrations only when needed.
- If you're hoping to eliminate stubborn skin problems like melasma (brown spots on the face) or comedonal pimples (small, skin-colored spots often on the brow or chin), chemical peels on the dermatologist's office may help. Consider going through the peel.
Do not exfoliate each day. “At most, do this two or three times a week,” says Dr. Reynolds. “Your skin needs to repair itself between exfoliation episodes.”